Hi. I am in this ever long debate about whether to get a 29er or 26er by Moots. I would be thankful if anyone has anything to say about their bikes!
Thanks
Windracer
Hi. I am in this ever long debate about whether to get a 29er or 26er by Moots. I would be thankful if anyone has anything to say about their bikes!
Thanks
Windracer
What is a 26er?
Why not split the difference and get a 69er? Seriously, I have a YBB Gristle and love it! Prefer it over the YBB, Smoothie and MootoX YBB I have owned. Snappy in the rear and rolls big on the front. Climbs great. No weird feeling when you ride either. With that said, I am waiting on a MootoX RSL. Love the big wheels, would never go back.
In all seriousness, I am a 29" fan. But, it is all up to the individual - are you 4'7" and ride technical, tight/twisty, or 6'5" and like the wide open singletrack? The 29ner rolls when up to speed, is better on virtually any flowy, whoop-de-do type and downhill - the 26" is quicker in acceleration and the tight stuff.
There was a big discrepancy in weight (and in particular, wheel-tire weight), but that has come a long way, plus parts, forks, etc., were hard to come by - but no longer. It took me about 12 feet to decide ......no question.
I know for a fact that Moots sells 10 to 1 the 29" to a 26" regardless of the style (hardtail, full suspension). I virtually guarentee that other companies - big or small are the same - at least in their high end models. I also think that when 650 wheeled sizes become more and more previlant, they'll seriously content with the 29ner now. (and I change my sign in name to 650er).
I certainly am no podium finisher, but this past week, I was at/in two races - I saw about three 26" bikes. No lie - and there is a reason for that - except for that initial 1/2 second get-up-and-go acceleration, a 29ner is the ticket. But as EVERYONE is riding them now, it all equals out - because the rest of the racing is better on a 29ner.
You don't race? It doesn't matter - you don't need to be Mario Andreddi (sp) to know what a nice/fast car is/does - if you follow that logic.
They have a bigger contact patch (rubber on the road), they descend better, they roll over things (way) better, they keep up to speed better, with current geometry - they are virtually just as 'feelable' as a 26", and with new wheels, forks, components, etc., etc, they are just as 'had-able' as a 26". If you spend the money - they can be as light (or damn near it) as a compatible 26" and the new models (any brand) make them even for the very smallish of person - 5'2" and so....
You must have a connection with someone or a bike shop that will let you take a spin, no? Take a ride, you'll be able to tell pronto if they are what you may want - to me, there is no question - sold all my 26" bikes, wheels, forks, etc.....jeez, it's been 3 or 4 years now. All you 26" guys - no wars - I'm just answering his question - you can make all the 'pro 26"' statements you'd like.
I am waiting for Moots to do 650B!
Then I reakon I'll hand over my hard earned cash.
I was forced to ride my 26 this week as my Gristle was under the weather and while its a great bike and climbs fine i really missed the big wheel rollover on the Gristle. I did feel that the 26er got up to speed faster but then didnt seem to handle the speed as well as the 96er im used to. One my new parts arrive, i see the 26er going back to the wall to gather dust.
I have both (sizes) bikes and I echo 29ner's comment that if you mostly ride in tight, twisty, technical singletrack, go for a 26". If you ride in a wide open, fast terrain, go 29". I like having more than one arrow in my quiver...
That being said, there are pro's and con's to each ride and people are so enamored with a 29" bike right now that they don't like to admit or talk about any downside, some of which are; they are harder to get up to speed, they are more difficult to switch directions on quickly (that big gyroscope of a wheel doesn't want to switch angles when spinning fast) and in really technical stuff that front wheel is a larger lever wanting to yank the bar out of your hand (which is why you'll see 29'ers come with really wide bars) when you hit an obstacle.
Everyone at the races are on 29'ers because everyone is on 29'ers. A couple guys showed up, who just happened to be the fast guys so maybe they were sponsored and got 'em free or for a deal and everyone else said "that is a performance advantage, I gotta get one." Even though their "performance advantage" is just being fast.
I'm not against 29'ers, not by a long shot. I really like mine for certain applications, but I do think a lot of the hype around 29'ers is just that, hype. Your best bet is to go ride both, preferably on the same model (although not necessarily on a Moots, I know that would be tough) just to see the difference of wheel size and not have to worry about major differences in bikes. See which one you like better and then go that route.
"......Even though their "performance advantage" is just being fast......."
The racers, not the bikes...
Fubar, i have never noticed this:
(that big gyroscope of a wheel doesn't want to switch angles when spinning fast) and in really technical stuff that front wheel is a larger lever wanting to yank the bar out of your hand (which is why you'll see 29'ers come with really wide bars) when you hit an obstacle
Nor have i read anything of this effect in the reviews of 29vs26. I do notice my 96er is more stable in turns and hold a line better than my 26er. Am i just looking at a glass 1/2 full vs your 1/2 empty? Also ive not had any "yanking" on my bars, ...so i wonder which 29er you rode that acts this way? (Hopefully not a Moots) perhaps something with a poorly set up front shock?
I will concede that unlees you are running superlight wheels they are more difficult to get to speed, but once going the 29er wheel has a "roll" that I've never felt on a 26er.
Fubar,
I'm glad you said that, because I thought you meant the bike. There is no such thing as a fast bike - there are, though plenty of fast riders. All things being equal, I feel 29ners are faster, better performing, and just plain fun(ner) than their 26" counterpart.
And please give some credit. I could not care less what some pro or 'fast guy' who shows at a race is riding. I would like to think that most other Moots owners feel the same (or we'd all have carbon bikes). Pros have new bike(s) every year - and the top pros have new ones every major race. Jeez, they get new ones flown in the night before with a special paint job because it's their birthday.
You read, you learn, you listen, you try, you get.
All I know is that 3 or 4 years ago, I saw virtually no 29ners (races or not) - now, that's all I see and certainly true at the race events. So, back to Windracer - read, learn, listen, try, and get one if you like it. You can probably tell that 29ner owners like them and wouldn't go back - don't take it from me/SBSbiker or what the fast guys at the race are riding. 29ners are the way to go (IMO) - I don't know if I'd bet that 26ers will be a viable option in another few years - with the 650 drawing alot of interest. But that's another forum.............
It is not a Moots, but the fork is set up properly. This is mostly slow, technical riding through rock garden type terrain. When hitting trail obstacles, the longer "lever" of that bigger wheel moves it side to side easier.
And as far as that gyroscope effect, we have a trail here that has a series of high speed, banked switchbacks and "S" curves where getting the bike to switch from one direction to another quickly is more difficult than on my 26". Sure, some of that is the fact my 26" is a Moots and the 29" is not (not enough coin at the time to buy another Moots). BUT, both of these observations were also noted by friends that I ride with that have both sizes of bikes.
I don't think any of the "cons" of a 29'er are enough to deter someone from getting one, but I do think someone should go ride both sizes before buying. That is the amazing thing about us (cyclists) we can adapt to just about anything and eventually feel like it is normal. I've got an old singlespeed that I built into a 96'er. When I get on it after a long break, the steering feels floppy and way too raked out, but after 10 minutes or so, I don't notice it at all.
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