I recently ordered a Mooto X YBB & plan to spec it with a Fox 32 Float 29 fork with a 15mm thru-axle. Right now I plan to go with a straight 1 1/8" steerer tube but I'm wondering if I should spec a tapered steerer fork instead. My question is this, is it worth slacking the head angle a bit to fit the tapered steerer fork to the frame? Has anybody who views this forum noticed a big enough difference in how the fork tracks to warrant the added height to the front of the bike?
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nstilwell
MemberI just built a new MXYBB with the same Fox 100mm fork and went with the 1.5" tapered steerer tube and a King InSet 7 where the bearings are internal at the top and external at the bottom. It probably pushes the head tube up slightly, but not noticeable (in my opinion) with mtb tires, etc. Maybe you would notice the geometry a bit more on a road bike setup. I had the bike shop run it by someone at Moots and they said you can go with either a straight tapered fork. I didn't try slacking the head angle...perhaps that would make it just right, but I don't you would notice a difference one way or another.
Posted 1 year ago # -
29ner
MemberThis has been gone over on the forum - I'm sure if you look around, you'll find it. But as nstilwell said, it'll raise the front just a bit if you use the tapered fork and the Inset. I can't possibly imagine you'd notice the ride difference on a mountainbike - I would think tire selection and/or tire air pressure would have a much more dramatic feel on the front end than a 1/4 or 1/2 degree of head angle (in addition to the fork height/pressure/sag settings). Your stem length/angle and if using riser bars (and what height riser) also play a part in front end feel - although has nothing do due with frame geometry.
I don't think I would mess with it as Moots charges a fairly significant amount for a head angle change - rightfully so as it's alot of work for 1/2 a degree as far as machining/jigging/drawings go.
On a road bike, possibly. Mountainbike, I'd (personally) opt not to. And maybe I'm reading this wrong, but you'd want to steepen the head a bit rather than slacken........
A tapered fork with a 15mm thru axle - that'll be bombproof stable up front.
Posted 1 year ago # -
29er,
It will change the stock geometry, but like posted above....tire pressure, shock sag, could almost make up for the difference in stack height. Some like the tad slower front end.....kinda a personal preference call.Let me know how it goes.
Thanks,
Jon@Moots
Posted 1 year ago # -
Mojo Man
MemberFYI, if running the tappered fork the bike front would sit up about 12mm higher because of the external bottom hs bearing.
This would slacken the overall geo, therefore you would make the HTA steeper by a 1/2 degree or so to offset, not slacken the HTA like was stated above.
Just my $.02
Mojo
Posted 1 year ago # -
Mojo Man,
Did I read something wrong? If you add lenght (running the tapered fork with external lower bearing) to the fork it will slacken the HTA, causing the handling to slow down. If you went the other direction of running a shorter travel, this would steepen the HTA causing the bike to be more twitchy.Just want to make sure I was understood here.
Thanks!
Jon@Moots
Posted 1 year ago # -
Mojo Man
MemberJon,
You are absolutely correct, that’s what I was trying to say in my reply, at times I have problems with my explanations.
What I was trying to explain, if increasing the A/C length, or in this case using a tapered fork, you would have to make the HTA steeper by approx. 1/2* to offset the slackening effect.
mojo
Posted 1 year ago #
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